On November 6, Will Bosi made the second ascent of the boulder problem Nova at Holstejn crag in the Moravsky Kras area of Czechia. A traversing line of heinous crimps and pinches, the problem was established by Czech climber Jana Švecová in June this year. After starting seated on Sedni si na Kost V14 , the line has two moves before merging into the second half of Adam Ondra’s Terranova, an unrepeated V16. Švecová originally graded Nova V14 (8B+) but Bosi has suggested an upgrade to V15 (8C), which Švecová appears to agree with. Bosi just released a new uncut video of his send of Nova, which you can watch below.
“It was graded [V14] – it feels absolutely ridiculous,” says Bosi about Nova in the video. “For context, [when] I came last year, I did six [V15s] in the Czech Republic. All of them [took] less time than [Nova] so far, and [Nova] is supposedly only [V14]. And it’s supposedly the easier half of Terranova [V16]. So the thought of doing this part – which it absolutely desperate – and then adding a harder half to begin with is pretty mind-blowing.”
Bosi is currently in Czechia working on Terranova. After not seeing much action over the past decade, Bosi and Švecová have been working the problem on and off over the past year. Švecová did all the moves of Terranova in isolation after only two sessions. Because she’s much shorter than Ondra, she’s come up with new beta for key sequences. Švecová’s continued to make links but hasn’t been able to send the nails-hard problem just yet.
When asked about the grade of Terranova in the comments of a recent Instagram post, Bosi replied, “Without the send it’s hard to say but it’s roughly six moves of 8A/8B [V11/13] into six moves of 8C [V15] so it’s got to be at least hard 8C+ [V16] in my opinion.” According to Bosi, Terranova has “some of the worst crimps and pinches [he’s] used,” which says a lot for someone who repeated both Burden of Dreams V17 and Alphane V17.