Mary Eden Climbs 5.14b Roof Crack in Utah

Mary Eden has repeated Black Mamba 5.14b, which Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall said was one of their hardest roof cracks to date when they made the first ascent in 2019. Read their story here.

Eden, whose Instagram handle is Trad Princess, said the finish to Black Mamba involves an inverted offwidth section around 20 feet long that requires a Valley Giant #9 to protect. “Throughout the climb, my mantra was ‘climb smart’ – conserving energy for the demanding finish,” said Eden.

Eden is one of America’s best crack climbers, with repeats of Necronomicon 5.13d/14a, Belly Full of Bad Berries 5.13b (watch below), The Price of Evil 5.13b, Mechanical Bull 5.13a, The Crack House 5.13, The Tricks Are For Kids 5.13 and Iron Sharpen Iron 5.13.

Black Mamba is at the top of the list of hard desert cracks, along with Century Crack 5.14b, Stranger Than Fiction 5.14, East Coast Fist Bump 5.13c/d and Carbondale Short Bus 5.13+R. Watch Whittaker and Randall on the FA of Black Mamba and read Eden’s post-climb write up below.

Black Mamba FA

Belly Full of Bad Berries

The post Mary Eden Climbs 5.14b Roof Crack in Utah appeared first on Gripped Magazine.

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