The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) has been working with Ontario Parks this year to secure better access to cliffs on provincial land. Last week they announced that climbers are once again welcome at Devil’s Glen and Lion’s Head.
Discussions will continue between the two organisations, but this is a big victory for rock climbers everywhere. Access to many historical crags in Ontario has been closed, some for decades and some only for a few seasons, as Ontario Parks has a “no climbing” rule. Under Ontario’s provincial parks: general provision (which you can find here), it’s said that “no person shall rappel or climb rock faces in a provincial park with or without the aid of ropes, anchors or similar equipment except in an area designated by the superintendent for that purpose.”
Earlier this year, new “no climbing” signs appeared at Devil’s Glen, which led to a letter writing campaign initiated by the OAC. That campaign, along with several other positive actions by climbers and climbing groups, led to the recent reversal to some area closures.
Ontario has some of the best crag climbing in Canada, so it’s great news that the OAC is working hard to secure access for climbers in the future. Be sure to support and join the OAC if you haven’t already.